The Write Way Around: Traveling Tales

This is Part 2 to my three-part series on how best to explore Franz Josef. Read Part 1 here.

I woke up curled up in a ball in the corner of my bed, cramps sieging my every muscle and rendering me useless for much of the morning. I looked outside, and the day was so bright and so clear it was as if the sun came down to good old mother earth to have a walk around Franz Josef with us.

Despite the beautiful day in an area with incredibly temperamental weather, I had an extra motivation to rest up and be well for the afternoon: I had my first ever scenic flight over the Franz Josef Glacier via helicopter with the Helicopter Line.

I had originally planned to do a 40-minute scenic flight around Mount Cook and the Southern Alps, because Mount Cook was one of my favourite spots in all of New Zealand; however, when I arrived at the office to check-in I was informed the wind was too strong that day and the pilots were not flying that way.

For a minute I debated whether to put the trip on hold and give it a go the following afternoon, but I decided that I should stop being a perfectionist and enjoy the time and chance I am given – either way, I knew it would be an epic flight.

I decided to go with the 30 minute flight over Franz and Fox Glaciers that included a snow landing. Once that was all done and settled, the dreaded weigh-in came, to which I learned that I gained nearly 2 kilos since the start of my trip. Not cool, but traveling is traveling I guess.

The helicopter could accommodate up to six passengers plus the pilot, and on my flight with me were two Indian couples who were currently living in New Zealand. We had some good chat about India and any troubles I faced being a solo female traveler in a country known for its violence against women, but our discussion eventually switched focus to my daily, undying craving for street Chai. Hands down, chai in India is the best drink on planet earth.

Once we were all weighed and checked in, we received a basic and short briefing on how to behave when approaching and when riding as a passenger in the helicopter. Pretty straight forward really, so a few minutes later we headed off across the street and down to the helicopter pad. The helicopter was grounded, quietly sitting there waiting for us to board.

Having only ridden a helicopter only once in my life, which was the two-minute ride to the base of the glacier the day before, I do not necessarily consider myself an expert. I would not say it was brand new, but it did look sharp: a striking, commanding red off-set by a pearly white.

The interior was comfortable, clean and looked like it was in good condition without showing any signs of wear and tear. I climbed into the front, sitting between the pilot and one of the Indian women on the flight with me that afternoon.

In the back was a row of four seats that the other three slid into. Though I was happy to be upfront I was gutted not to be next to the window, but we were told that we would have a chance to switch our seats around and give people the opportunity to get some different vantage points.

Our pilot made sure we were all strapped in and ready to go. We put our headsets on to listen in as he prepared for takeoff and then began recounting the history of the area, the mountain ranges and the glaciers.

What a difference the sun made.

We flew through the rainforest, the valley rising and falling like humps on a camel’s back and parting ways to reveal snow-capped peaks in the background.

The tops of the mountain pierced through clouds as thick as chimney smoke. The vegetation blanketing the hills and mountains around us was the healthiest, freshest. most thirst-quenched shade of green that I just wanted to swirl my fingers in and make a painting with.

I could not control myself when it came to taking pictures – all of which were taken with my iPhone as I realized during takeoff that my DSLR was completely dead after being left on all day.

We circled around over Fox Glacier, one of the only other three glaciers in the world that leads into a temperate rainforest. Just off in the distance was a placid sea wrapping around the land and glistening like a diamond in the sun.

The mountains were bathed in snow, and we landed on what is called the Franz Josef neve, a bed of snow and ice that sat at the top of the glacier. We were 7,000 meters above sea level and playing around on 300 meters of ice below our feet.

The Southern Alps felt like they were just at my finger tips. The highest is peak is Mount Cook at more than 12,000 meters, and the second highest is Abel Tasman at just over 11,000 meters. Together they dominate the sky, looking fierce and mighty and something not to be messed with.

Our snow landing was my favorite part about the whole trip. There was nothing up there but us and the elements around us – the snow, the sun, the bluest of skies, a light breeze, the roaring alps and the graceful sea.

I wanted to stay up there forever and a day. What I loved most about it? It was not even cold! The sun was warm and gentle the way it is when the sun is going down at the end of a summer’s day spent on the beach.

After about ten minutes or more of hanging out on the neve, writing my niece’s name in the snow, watching on as the couples had a snow fight and switching my gaze to the peaks that soared above my head, it was time to get back in the copter.

This time around I was in the back seat by the window, and I found that it was a great spot to be in just as the front middle was.

We soared over Franz Glacier, its ridges and lines looking more those of a mountain than hardened snow.

Ultimately, this scenic flight was one of the best things I have done. The helicopter ride was the furthest thing from scary, and the snow landing was the creme-de-la-creme of experiences.

I walked back to my hostel that night feeling like a baller who just had New Zealand’s Southern Alps virtually all to herself. Luckily, I arrived back just in time to line up for the free bread and soup served up at my hostel each night.

Just like that, I was a back to being a backpacker.

Disclaimer: I was a guest of Helicopter Line. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.